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Author: Michele Carbone Page 2 of 9

Beef Roast Brasato, or Brasato di Manzo (for many people)

I love this recipe, it is easy to make and feeds easily 10-14 people or more. It’s perfect if you busy and have little time to prepare a dinner, it takes about 45 min to prepare it before putting it in the oven, then it cooks on its own for 3 hours: you will impress your guests for sure.

Ingredients

  • Beef roast with 3 – 4 ribs (about 9-12 pounds) , depending on how many people will be over for dinner.  You need to make sure you have a big enough roasting pot for the roast – for a 4-rib roast, you need a 12 inch cast iron skillet with a cover
  • 3 – 4 celery stalks, chopped into 1-inch pieces
  • 3 – 4 carrots, chopped into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 large red onion cut in small pieces
  • A bunch of fresh thyme, marjoram, rosemary, and bay leaves tied into a bunch (I use a tea bag to hold the fresh spices in a sack).
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • ½ cup of all-purpose flour
  • 1 stick of butter
  • 1 TB. olive oil
  • ½ box (about 400 grams) of Pomì chopped tomatoes or homemade canned tomatoes
  • 2 cups (1/2 liter) of meat broth
  • 1 bottle of a good red Italian wine, for example a Nebbiolo (use a good quality wine)

Preparation

  1. Preheat the oven to 325 F.
  2. Put salt and pepper on the roast, and massage it in with your hands.
  3. Put a half cup of all-purpose flour into a large brown bag and put the roast into the bag. Shake it up so that the entire roast is lightly covered with flour.
  4. Melt 1 stick of butter with 1 TB of olive oil in the skillet.  Put the floured roast into a pan.  Use high heat, rotating every 2 – 3 minutes, allowing the roast it take a nice gold color all around.
  5. Once the entire roast is lightly browned, add the onion, carrots and the celery 3 minutes.
  6. Keeping the heat on medium-high, add the herb sac and 1 bottle of Nebbiolo (or other good strong Italian wine) – look, if you use a wine of high quality, you will have a dish of high quality, and vice-versa. Allow about 1/5 of the wine to evaporate.
  7. Add 1/2 box (400 grams) of crushed Pomì tomatoes -or better if you have them home made canned tomatoes) let it cook 5 minutes and then add the homemade meat broth. Cover and put in the oven for 3 hours.  Turn the roast only once.
  8. During the last 30 minutes or so, remove the cover if it appears that there is more liquid in the pan than you would like so the sauce becomes denser.
  9. After 3 hours turn off the oven, and remove the roasting pan.  Leave it covered until you are ready to serve it. .

Italiano: Brasato di Manzo

Ingredienti

  • Arrosto di manzo o vitello 3 – 4 costole, circa 3-5 kg dipende quanti siete.  4 kg bastano per 12-14 persone.  Prima di comprarlo misurate la pentola da forno che deve avere il coperchio, per essere sicuri di comprare un arrosto che entra nella vostra pentola e nel vostro forno.
  • 3 – 4 gambi di sedano a pezzetti di circa 2 cm
  • 3 – 4 carote, a pezzetti di circa 2 cm
  • 1 cipolla rossa grande a pezzetti
  • Un mazzetto di timo, maggiorana, rosmarino e lauro legato insieme o mezzo in una bustina da te, oppure “libero” se non avete bustina o come legarlo
  • Sale e pepe nero
  • 3-4 pugni di farina
  • 1 bastoncino di burro
  • 1 cucchiaio d’olio d’oliva
  • ½ pacco di Pomi (circa 40o g), meglio se avete la costra conserva di pomodoro fatta in casa
  • ½ litro di brodo di carne
  • 1 bottiglia di Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cirò o altro vino rosso di qualità`.

Preparazione

  1. Preriscaldari il forno a 160 C.
  2. Massaggiare la carne con sale e pepe.
  3. Infarinarne la carne, senza esagerare.
  4. Squagliate il burro con l’olio nella pentola, alzate il fuoco a medio alto o alto -dipende dalla potenza dei vostri fornelli- e rosolate la carne 3-4 min per lato finche` si colora bene.
  5. Aggiungete cipolla, sedano e carote e cucinate per latri 3-4 min.
  6. Aggiungete il mazzetto aromatico e 1 bottiglia di vino rosso, fate evaporare circa 1/5 del vino poi aggiungete il pomodoro e appena bolle, il brodo di carne.
  7. Coprite e infornate per due ore girando l’arrosto dopo un’ora e mezzo.
  8. Verso la fine, cioè a circa 30 minuti dalla fine scoprite per fare condensare il sugo. Cuoche 3 ore, togliere dal forno e lasciato coperto fino al momento di mangiare.
  9. Buon Appetito!

Confit of Cherry Tomatoes

This is one of the easiest and most delicious recipes I’ve tried. I think the reason it’s so delicious is because the flavor of the cherry tomatoes is dominant, and the combination of sweet and tart reminds us of summer days at any time of the year.  It’s great on its own, as a simple sauce for pasta, gnocchi, or a slice of crusty bread.  But it can also be used as a basis for many other recipes, including a mussel soup.

The confit can be stored in your refrigerator for up to two weeks, so I always buy several pounds of the cherry tomatoes and make a big batch. I’ve never actually made it to the two-week mark without using all the confit in one recipe or another.

Tomatoes, basil, olive oil, and garlic

The ingredients all go into one pot at the same time.

Ingredients

  • 4 lbs. of cherry tomatoes (I use a mix of red, yellow, and orange tomatoes because they each have different levels of acidity. The brand “Wild Wonders,” available almost anywhere in the US, works very well.)
  • Good quality extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 full head of garlic, skin on, sliced horizontally
  • 2 bunches of fresh basil
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

If you want to prepare a lot, just buy more tomatoes, and use a larger casserole dish!

Preparation

Pre-heat your oven to 250° F.

After cooking, the cherry tomatoes are still whole. the sauce is a combination of juice and olive oil.

Cooked confit of cherry tomatoes. After cooking, the cherry tomatoes are still whole. the sauce is a combination of juice and olive oil.

  1. Wash the cherry tomatoes and put them into a deep-dish casserole or a Dutch oven.
  2. Pour enough olive oil to fill about 1/3 of the casserole containing the tomatoes.
  3. Add salt and black pepper, then mix the tomatoes gently so that each one is coated with oil and the salt and pepper are distributed.
  4. Now insert the garlic heads and basil into the casserole, covering them with the tomatoes.
  5. Put the casserole into the oven uncovered and cook for about one and a half hours.
  6. Cover the dish without disturbing the contents and let them cook for another 30 minutes.
  7. Remove the casserole dish from the oven. You’ll see that the tomatoes remain whole, but a lot of the juice from the tomatoes will fill mix with the olive oil, creating a delicately flavored sauce. Allow to cool and then remove all the garlic cloves from the mixture. (Leaving in the garlic will change the flavor of the dish because it overpowers the tomatoes.) That’s it!  I like it best when I prepare the confit the day before and then refrigerate it overnight.  The flavors combine into a more subtle sauce.

Mussel Soup with Cherry Tomato Confit

This is a wonderful, fast recipe. I recently hosted a dinner party, and everyone loved it and asked for more!

Ingredients

  • Confit of cherry tomatoes (4 cups)
  • 3 lbs. fresh mussels, cleaned and bearded
  • Fresh minced parsley (as a garnish)
  • Black pepper and salt to taste
  • 1 bunch of fresh basil

Preparation

  1. In a medium-sized pot with a tight lid (for example, a 15-quart pot), add the confit of cherry tomatoes.
  2. Bring them to a gentle boil on medium heat. As soon as they start to boil, add the fresh mussels and the basil. Gently stir to combine them with the confit. Cover the pot.
  3. Allow them to boil, covered, for 3 minutes. Open the lid and stir the mixture again, trying not to break too many tomatoes. Re-cover the pot cook another 3 minutes or so – you can tell when they are ready: when they all open their shells. Be careful to avoid overcooking them!
  4. Ladle into soup bowls, sprinkle with minced parsley, and serve with a crusty bread.

Confit di Pomodori

Ricetta semplicissima, con questo sugo potete farci tante cose, di sotto suggerisco una zuppa di cozze buonissima.

Ingredienti

  • Circa 2 kg di pomodorini piccoli (latterini).
  • 2-3 mazzi di basilico, lavato e fatto a pezzetti con le mani
  • Olio d’oliva di ottima qualità
  • Sale

Preparazione

  1. Forno a 125 C
  2. Mettete i pomodori e il basilico e un po’ di sale in una pentola da forno, aggiungete olio d’oliva a coprire fino a 1/3 dalla base della pentola I pomodori -cioè tanto olio!) e infornateli scoperti per un ora e mezza, poi togliete il coperchio e cuocete per altri 30 minuti.
  3. FATTO! Vedrete che i pomodori sono ancora interi.
  4. Togliete l’aglio, poi potete farli raffreddare e conservare in frigo per 1-2 settimane, o surgelarli per uso future.

Ricetta con le Cozze

Ingredienti

  • 5 Kg di confit di pomodori
  • 5 Kg di cozze
  • 1 mazzo di basilico fresco
  • Pane di giornata

Preparazione

  1. Portate a ebollizione il pomodoro, aggiungete 1.5 Kg di cozze e un mazzo di basilico fresco, e coprite.
  2. Girate dopo 3 min, aspettate altri 3 minuti circa, appena le cozze si aprono portate a tavola e buon appetito (serve naturalmente pane fresco da intingere nel sugo).

Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto alla Milanese (with saffron)

There are many “interpretations” of this risotto. I found this recipe in an old 1950s magazine and maybe over the years I modified it a little bit.  It is one of my preferred risotto dishes, and best made together with Ossobuco (see recipe) since for an outstanding risotto you need the veal bone marrow – buccbut is excellent without it, too.

Time: it takes about 22 minutes from the time you pour the rice in the casserole pan.

Ingredients for 6 people:

  • About 500 ml of either meat broth – that is what I usually use; or chicken broth, which also works also very well. Bring to a boil before you start cooking then lower heat to a simmer.
  • 50 grams of butter and 1 TB olive oil
  • 500 grams of risotto, “Carnaroli” best, alternatively “Vialone nano.”
  • 1 medium red onion, minced
  • ½ cup dried porcini – which you will put in a cup of warm broth before you start cooking – or 50 grams or so of fresh porcini or some good fresh mushrooms cut into ½ inch thick slices
  • 1 cup of red wine (Nebbiolo grape is best)
  • About 2 grams of saffron dissolved in 1 cup of warm broth. You will dissolve the saffron before you start cooking as it takes some time to completely dissolve
  • Bone marrow from about 3-4 osso buchi
  • 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano (about 50 grams); more can be grated on the plate

Preparation:

  1. In a good round pot, La Creuset, Staub, etc., or in a copper pot, melt the butter and oil.
  2. Bring the heat to medium-high and add the minced onions. As soon as they start to soften, add the risotto. While constantly stirring it, cook for about 3 minutes.
  3. Add the mushrooms, stirring constantly for 1 more minute.
  4. Add 1 cup of red wine, and allow it to evaporate almost entirely
  5. Add the hot broth, 1 ladle at time. As it is incorporated into the risotto, add more.  You need to stir continuously as the risotto, mushrooms and onions cook in the hot broth.
  6. When you are close to 20 minutes of cooking time, add the broth in which you have dissolved the saffron. How much saffron? Well different saffron have different power, so 2 grams/500 grams of rice is a suggestion that may need to be modified depending on the type of saffron you use.  Anyway it is pretty simple: The rice should turn yellow orange: if is pale yellow you need to dissolve more saffron in broth and add more, if it starts turning orange, as soon as that happens, stop adding broth with saffron and continue instead with broth without saffron
  7. Once the rice is ready –taste it to know when is ready–add the bone marrow, mix well, turn off the heat and move the pot on a cold burner.  Add the Parmigiano, mix well, taste for salt and eventually add more as needed (it depends if the broth had or did not have enough salt).  Black pepper? Tell your guests to add it if they like.
  8. Buon appetito!

 

Italiano: Risotto alla Milanese

Tante “intepretazioni” questa ricotta l’ho trovata in una vecchia rivista degli anni 50 a casa dei miei nonni, l’ho copiata e probabilmente modificata un po’ nel corso degli anni.  È uno dei miei risotti preferiti.  Suggersco di offrirlo insieme all’ossobuco, perchè per un risotto alla Milanese perfetto serve un po di midollo di vitello, ma va bene anche senza, non perfetto, ma ottimo.

Tempo: Ci vogliono circa 22 minuti dal momento in cui buttate il riso in casseruola.

Ingredienti per 6 persone:

  • Circa mezzo litro di brodo di carne o se non lo avete di pollo che mettete sul fuoco finchè bolle, poi abbassate al minimo
  • 50 grammi di burro e 1 cucchiaio di olio d’oliva
  • 500 grammi di risotto, “Carnaroli” oppure “Vialone nano”.
  • 1 cipolla media a pezzettini
  • 1-2 pugni di porcini secchi messi a mollo in circa 200 ml di brodo tiepido
  • meglio circa 50 grammi di porcini freschi o altri funghi buoni a pezzetti
  • 1 bicchiere vino rosso (nebbiolo meglio)
  • Circa 2 grammi di zafferano dissolto in circa 250 ml di brodo tiepido –ci vuole un po perchè i dissolva perciò mettetelo a dissolvere appena cominciate, quando mettete il brodo a scaldare.
  • Il midollo di 3-4 ossi buchi
  • Circa 50 grammi di parmigiano –poi chi vuole ne mette altro

 

Preparazione

  1. In una buona pentola rotonda, La Creuset, Staub, etc., o di rame, squagliate il burro con olio –fuoco basso.
  2. Alzate il fuoco e aggiungete cipolla a pezzetti e riso girando costantemente, 3 minuti.
  3. Aggiungete i funghi, girare 1 altro minuto.
  4. Aggiungere 1 bicchiere vino rosso fare evaporare quasi completamente.
  5. Aggiungere 1 mestolo di brodo per volta fino a cottura – circa 20 minuti.
  6. Quando il riso è quasi cotto, 5 minuti prima di spegnere il fuoco, aggiungere il brodo in cui avete dissolto lo zafferano. Quanto zafferano? Quando il riso è giallo/arancione (colore mandarino) è la quantità giusta: se è solo giallo serve più zafferano, come diventa un po’ arancione, fermatevi.
  7. Quando il riso è quasi pronto aggiungere il midollo di vitello che avrete preso dagli ossibuchi mischiare, spegnere il fuoco spostare la padella su fornello freddo aggiungete il parmigiano e mischiate. Sale? Dipende se il brodo lo aveva, comunque assaggiate e se necessario aggiungetelo. Pepe nero? Un po’ ci sta bene, ma fate fare ai commensali a gusto proprio.
  8. Buon Appetito.

 

My Favorite Roasted Rabbit Recipe

Roasted Rabbit

One day a few years ago, my wife Betti called me from Whole Foods. “They have frozen rabbit,” she said. “Didn’t you tell me that you wanted to cook something different?”  I told her to buy it, and then began looking through my cookbooks for a good recipe.

After going through several of my favorite books, including the one my mother gave me in college (Il Cuoco Gentiloumo), I decided that none of them were quite right.  I decided to create my own recipe, and it turned out to be one of my best.

Ingredients

  • 1 rabbit cut in 8-12 pieces (ask the butcher to do it if you do not know how)
  • Extra virgin Italian olive oil
  • 1 green bell pepper, sliced into in 8 wedges
  • 1 large ripe tomato, Heirloom preferred, sliced into 8 wedges
  • 2 teaspoons of capers
  • 2 tablespoons of good-quality green olives (pitted)
  • 5 cloves garlic
  • 1 bunch of Italian parsley
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 bunch of basil
  • 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, just the leaves
  • ¾ of a cup white wine
  • Juice from 3 lemons
  • Balsamic vinegar, ¼ of a cup
  • ½ cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 hot spicy pepper

 

Preparation

  1. Marinate the rabbit with:
    • 1/3 of cup olive oil
    • 3 cloves of garlic, smashed
    • The juice of 3 lemons
    • 2 sprigs of rosemary –needles only
    • 8-10 basil leaves
    • The green bell pepper in 8 pieces
    • Salt and black pepperTurn the pieces over every 20 minutes or so, for about 1 hour.
  2. Start oven convection roast 475 – 480 F
  3. In a roasting pan, or Dutch oven (for example, Staubb or Le Crueset), add 1/4 cup of olive oil, 1 minced red pepper (for example, a Calabrian red pepper or a Thai pepper), 2 cloves of smashed garlic, some coarse salt. Add the rabbit pieces and half of the marinade.
  4. Cook for 10 minutes on high, mixing every so often to brown the rabbit.
  5. After 10 minutes, add the rest of the marinade and continue to brown for 5 more minutes.
  6. In the meantime, get a medium sized bowl and mix together ¾ of a cup of white wine, ¼ of cup of balsamic vinegar. Add half of the remaining minced parsley.
  7. Remove the pan from the fire, and add ½ cup of flour, the wine and balsamic vinegar mix, and 1 cup of water to the pan. Mix the liquid well and then add the slices of tomato and the rest of the parsley.  Put the pan into the oven and lower the heat to 400 F.
  8. After 15 minutes, add the 2 teaspoons of capers and the 2 tablespoons of green olives. Cook for 5 more minutes.The total roasting time is 20 minutes, or 25 minutes if you cook a large rabbit or double this recipe.
  9. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with the remainder of the minced parsley, a handful of fresh basil and serve with excellent, crusty bread.
  10. Buon Appetito!

 

Italiano: Coniglio di Miguel

Ricetta che ho inventato perché tutte quelle che trovavo non mi piacevano.  È venuto il miglior coniglio che ho mai mangiato e da allora è uno dei miei piatti preferiti.

Ingredienti

  • 1 coniglio intero tagliato in 8-12 pezzi. Se non sapete tagliarlo chiedete al macellaio di farlo per voi
  • Olio extravergine di oliva italiano
  • 1 peperone verde, tagliato in 8 spicchi
  • 1 pomodoro grande maturo, preferito Heirloom, tagliato in 8 spicchi
  • 2 cucchiaini di capperi
  • 2 cucchiai di olive verdi di buona qualità (denocciolate)
  • 5 spicchi d’aglio
  • 1 mazzetto di prezzemolo italiano
  • 4 foglie di alloro
  • 1 mazzetto di basilico
  • 2 rametti di rosmarino fresco, solo le foglie
  • ¾ di bicchiere di vino bianco
  • Succo di 3 limoni
  • Aceto balsamico, ¼ di tazza
  • ½ tazza di farina per tutti gli usi
  • 1 peperoncino piccante

Preparazione

  1. Mettere il coniglio a marinare per circa 1 ora in una pentola con: 3 limoni spremuti, 3 spicchi d’aglio schiacciati, ½ tazzina di caffè di olio d’oliva, 1 peperone verde tagliato in 8 pezzi, 4 foglie di lauro, 1 rametto di rosmarino (solo gli aghi), un pugno di basilico, sale e pepe nero. Girare ogni 20 minuti circa.
  2. Accendere forno a 250C.
  3. In una buona pentola di alluminio o di ferro, 1/3 di tazzina di caffè d’olio d’oliva, 1 peperoncino piccante, quelli calabresi sono i migliori, 2 spicchi d’aglio schiacciati, un po’ di sale grosso. Aggiungere il coniglio e mezza marinata, fuoco forte fate rosolare per 10 minuti.
  4. Passati 10 minuti, aggiungete il resto della marinata e continuate a rosolare per 5 minuti a fuoco forte.
  5. Preparate 1 bicchiere 3/4 di vino bianco 1/4 di aceto balsamico e tagliate in 4 pezzi un grosso pomodoro. Tritate 1/2 mazzetto di prezzemolo.  Prendete la farina.
  6. Spegnete il fuoco, aggiungete due pugni di farina, il bicchiere vino e aceto, e lo stesso volume di acqua, rimestando per sciogliere la farina, aggiungete metà del prezzemolo e il pomodoro a pezzi, infornate scoperto abbassando il forno a 200.
  7. Dopo 15 minuti aggiungere 2 cucchiai di capperi e due di olive verdi (buone non olive in barattolo.) Infornate per altri 5 minuti (tempo totale in forno 20 minuti che diventane 25 se il coniglio è grosso o se state cuocendo due conigli).
  8. Togliere dal forno spruzzarci sopra un po di prezzemolo, e basilico fresco e buon appetito!

Tiramisu by Betti

Tiramisu is one of the classic Italian desserts, a delicious combination of cream, coffee, sugar and egg.   A good tiramisu is difficult to find, but I’ve been able to prepare this one for very large crowd…just a little piece goes a long way!

Tiramisu

A delicious slice of tiramisu

This is based on Giancarlo Gottardo’s recipe, but it has less sugar and  adds whipped egg whites to the custard for the tiramisu.

I also add a chocolate-flavored rum to the zabaglione (custard) that is the basis for the tiramisu. The alcohol in the rum cooks off, but it leaves a delicious flavor.

The tiramisu has a layer of custard on the bottom, topped by a layer of coffee-dipped ladyfingers, with another layer of custard, another layer of coffee-dipped ladyfingers, and then topped with a final layer of custard sprinkled with powered chocolate.  This recipe makes enough of the custard for a 13.5 inch by 9 inch  rectangular baking pan.

Because it’s so rich, a small piece is just right, and this recipe can serve 40 people easily.  That said, I always give the leftover tiramisu from a smaller gathering to my mom, who eats a couple of pieces each day for almost a week.  She assures me that the tiramisu seems to get better with each passing day.  So don’t worry, even if this seems like a lot of tiramisu, none will go to waste.

When you assemble the ingredients, you need to make sure that you make each part separately and then combine them quickly into the baking pan.

Make the recipe one day in advance so that the ingredients combine together fully before serving it.

Ingredients

  • 5 egg yolks, with 3 TB sugar for the zabaglione
  • 3 egg whites, with 3 TB sugar (or just use all 5 egg whites, using 1 TB sugar for each). You can reserve the extra whipped egg whites for your coffee the following morning.
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • ¼ tsp vanilla extract
  • 2 packages of ladyfingers: You need enough to create two layers of ladyfingers in the baking pan
  • 3/4 cup fresh espresso, mixed with 2 TB sugar. You can optionally add 1/4 cup of chocolate-flavored rum to the coffee if you are okay with serving a dessert that has a small amount of alcohol in it.
  • 2 cups of mascarpone
  • 1/4 cup of chocolate-flavored rum (optional) for the zabaglione, plus an additional 1/4 cup that you can add to the coffee if you are okay with
  • 1/4 cup of ground dark chocolate (I use my coffee bean grinder to create the powder that dusts the top of the tiramisu)

Preparation

You will need several large mixing bowls ready for this recipe, as well as space in your refrigerator to store each bowl as you complete the steps below.  I have found that it’s best to start with the zabaglione, then whip the heavy cream, followed by the whipped egg whites.

Start by taking the two cups of mascarpone from the refrigerator so that they are at room temperature when you mix everything together.

Espresso

  1. Make 3/4 cup espresso and add 2 TB sugar. You an optionally add about 1/4 cup of chocolate-based rum, if you and your guests are okay with having some alcohol in the dessert.  If you prefer it non-alcoholic, make about 1 cup of espresso.
  2. Refrigerate until you need to assemble the tiramisu.

Zabaglione

The zabaglione is the egg-yolk-based custard that is key to making an excellent tiramisu.  You need to be prepared to devote at least 15 minutes of your full attention – and both hands – to the process of making zabaglione.  Turn off your phone, make sure you are listening to some good music!

  1. Prepare a Dutch boiler by putting water high enough to cover the bottom of the inserted pan. If you don’t have a Dutch boiler, select a pot that can hold a heavy Pyrex bowl comfortably, with the bottom part of the bowl immersed in the water.It’s best if you have a pan or bowl with a curved bottom, because you will need to whisk the eggs and sugar, and the curved surface makes the task easier and prevents sticking.
  2. Turn on the heat to medium/medium high to start heating the water. In the top pan, combine the 5 egg yolks with 3 TB sugar. With a large whisk, begin whisking the egg yolks and sugar, as the water comes to a light boil/simmer.You want to regulate the heat so that the water doesn’t boil too hard.  The goal is to make sure that the zabaglione cooks into a thick sauce over the next several minutes.
  3. Using a whisk, rapidly froth the egg yolks and sugar. Continue mixing over the Dutch oven for about 10 – 14 minutes. If you wish to add the chocolate-based rum, add it in 2-3 increments as you continue to whisk the eggs, sugar, and rum.If you don’t add the rum, add about 1/4 cup of the boiling water in small increments.
  4. When the mixture becomes thick, like a mayonnaise, the eggs have become pasteurized, and the zabaglione is ready.
  5. Remove the top part of the Dutch oven (or the Pyrex bowl) from the heat and continue to whisk for a couple of more minutes. This allows the custard to cool down and become slightly thicker.  Once it has cooled to a tepid temperature, you can stop whisking and place the bowl/pan you’re your refrigerator while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Whipping Cream

  1. In a cold mixing bowl, add the whipping cream and vanilla extract.
  2. Mix until the whipping cream is light and fluffy.
  3. Put into the refrigerator. Clean the blades on your blender before starting the next step.

Egg Whites

  1. Just before combining ingredients for the tiramisu, make the egg white mixture. In a mixing bowl, add the 3 egg whites and 3 TB sugar.
  2. Whip until the egg whites form stiff peaks.

Combining All Ingredients

  1. With a silicon/rubber spatula, lightly fold—by hand—the mascarpone with the whipping cream in your largest bowl. Do not overmix – the mixture should be a combination of lumpy and fluffy, like summer clouds.
  2. Now fold the zabaglione mixture into the combined mascarpone/whipping cream.
  3. Next, gently fold approximately 1/2 to 2/3 of the whipped egg whites into the mixture.
  4. Spoon a layer of the zabaglione/mascarpone/egg white mixture into a rectangular baking pan.
  5. Now add the first layer of coffee-soaked ladyfingers. I usually line up the ladyfingers, a flat-bottomed bowl containing the coffee, and the rectangular baking pan.Working quickly, one ladyfinger at a time, I dip a ladyfinger into the coffee, then place it gently on the layer of custard.  I create a layer of ladyfingers, lined up like little soldiers, over the custard.
  6. Add a layer of custard over the ladyfingers.
  7. Next, add a second layer of ladyfingers, following the same process as above – dip each ladyfinger in coffee, then gently place it over the custard in the baking dish.
  8. Layer the last of the custard over the ladyfingers.
  9. Sprinkle the powdered chocolate over the top of the pan.
  10. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the refrigerator at least 8 hours to allow the custard to set.

 

Twice Baked Potato Skins

When I make gnocchi, I bake the Russet potatoes first on high heat (450º F). After removing them from the oven and allowing them to cool off enough to handle them, I peel them, reserving the peels in a large bowl. The skins are delicious when baked again with a combination of cheese, herbs, and even anchovies.

Ingredients

  • Potato skins from baked Russet potatoes

    Mushrooms From Oak Park Market 1

    Mushrooms, a red pepper, and parsley used in my twice-baked potato skin recipe

  • A Calabrian or Thai pepper, minced
  • A handful of minced herbs, such as rosemary, parsley, and sage
  • Olive oil infused with garlic
  • …any optional additions, such as anchovies, fresh mushrooms, and grated Parmigiano or Peccorino cheese

Preparation

  1. The first time I made the twice-baked potato skins, I sautéed some anchovies in a bit of extra-virgin olive oil, an Italian red pepper, rosemary, and garlic.
  2. I removed the garlic from the olive oil and mixed the oil containing the homogenized anchovy and herbs with the potato skins.
  3. I sprinkled them with some grated Parmigiano cheese, and then baked the mixture in a pre-heated oven (450º F) for 15-20 minutes. They were delicious!

Another variation…

  1. The next time I made the baked potato skins, I was out of anchovies and rosemary. But I had some wonderful fresh mushrooms, so I sautéed the stems with a bit of olive oil and an Italian pepper.
  2. I combined the olive oil and minced pepper with the mushroom caps, some sage, rosemary, and parsley, and then mixed gently with the potato skins.
  3. I baked the mixture in a 450º F oven for 15 – 20 minutes, and it was fantastic.

 

The bottom line is that baking the potato skins again with a combination of some of your favorite cheeses and herbs makes a winning appetizer or side for a dinner.

Gnocchi – My Favorite Sauces

Two Sauces (Sugo) for Gnocchi

Gnocchi are often served with a meat-based sauce (sugo) in Rome, with lamb and pork being the most popular.  However, you can also serve the gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce (see my recipe here) or even just with butter, sage and shaved Parmigiano (a more Northern Italian combination).  My favorite is the recipe with lamb, but some people prefer the one with sausage.  Both recipes are below.

Italian Sausage Sauce for Gnocchi

This is a quick recipe that only takes about 30 minutes to prepare, so it’s great if you don’t have much time.

Ingredients

  • Italian sausage (pork), preferably made without fennel, 1 sausage per person, chopped into bite-sized pieces
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 to 1 red onion, chopped (1/2 for 4 sausages, 1 for 8 sausages)
  • Handful of fresh basil leaves
  • 1 spicy pepper, preferably Calabrese, but Thai or Hawaiian pepper will work
  • 250 – 500 grams of Pomì chopped tomatoes
  • Freshly grated Parmigiano

Preparation

  1. Cut the sausages into bite-sized pieces, add the chopped Pomì, and sauté in a just enough olive oil to coat the skillet. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes.
  2. Add the Pomì chopped tomatoes and a handful of basil and cook on low heat for 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. In the meantime, put a pot of water on the stove, using the same amount of water that you would use to boil pasta (5 to 6 quarts). Don’t add salt to the water because it will break down the gnocchi. Bring the water to a boil.
  4. When the sauce is ready, boil the gnocchi. It only takes a minute or two for the gnocchi to cook, so be attentive!  As soon as they start to float, they are ready.
  5. Use a large slotted spoon to remove the gnocchi from the pot and put them into your serving bowls. Top with the sauce and add freshly grated Parmigiano.  Serve immediately.
  6. Buon appetito!

Lamb Sauce (Sugo) for Gnocchi

This is an alternative sugo for gnocchi –my preferred sugo.  This recipe takes 2 to 3 hours to prepare, so you may want to prepare it the night before so that you just have to heat it and serve it with your fresh gnocchi.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound of lamb shoulder cutlets, you want inexpensive lamb that still has some fat
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 red onion, minced
  • 2 whole cloves of garlic, smashed
  • 1 handful of Italian parsley, minced
  • 1 bunch of fresh basil, minced and divided
  • 1/2 cup of white wine
  • 500 grams of Pomì chopped tomatoes
  • Freshly grated Pecorino cheese

Preparation

  1. In a large skillet, fry the garlic cloves in olive oil on low heat until they are golden. Remove the garlic from the pan and discard.
  2. Add the lamb shoulders cutlets and the minced red onion, and stir to combine. Add a handful of minced parsley, and cook on medium heat.
  3. As soon as the lamb takes color, add a handful of basil leaves, mix, add ½ glass white wine and 1 min later, add the 500 grams of crushed Pomì tomatoes and the rest of the basil. Add salt, lower the heat to the minimum temperature, and cover the pan with just a tiny gap to allow some steam to escape.  (I use a wooden spoon under the cover to create the vent).
  4. Cook on the lowest heat for 2 hours or more, until the meat falls from the bone. Stir again, and your sugo is ready.
  5. When you are ready to eat, put a pot of water on the stove, using the same amount of water that you would use to boil pasta (5 to 6 quarts). Don’t add salt to the water because it will break down the gnocchi. Bring the water to a boil.
  6. When the sauce is ready, boil the gnocchi. It only takes a minute or two for the gnocchi to cook, so be attentive!  As soon as they start to float, they are ready.
  7. Use a large slotted spoon to remove the gnocchi from the pot and put them into your serving bowls. Top with the sauce and add freshly grated Pecorino.  Serve immediately.
  8. Buon appetito!

 

 

Gnocchi  (recipe for 4 – 6 people)

Gnocchi are a classic dish that have been served since Roman times.  If you want good gnocchi go to Sora Lella, one of the best Roman restaurants on the Isola Tiberina in the center of Roma (https://www.trattoriasoralella.it/it/).

There are various kinds of gnocchi, but the most commonly-known in the United States are those made with potatoes.  And while we don’t have the exact types of potatoes in the US as are used in Italy, I decided to try to replicate the flavor and texture of those delicious little “knuckles.”

For some reason I had never made gnocchi, which sounds bad if you think of yourself as a good Chef! Betti and I experimented with a recipe in Mario Batali’s Molto Italiano cookbook –that is generally a good cookbook.  Well, not for gnocchi! After replicating his recipe (somewhat faithfully), we made a new version that works much better.  First of all, instead of boiling the potatoes, as suggested by Batali, we roasted them.  And his recipe recommends boiling the gnocchi and then putting them in a bowl with canola oil to refrigerate, then re-boil the gnocchi immediately before adding a sauce.  This doesn’t work!  Even with utmost care, the gnocchi that have been pre-boiled turn into soft fragments the minute you try to re-boil them.  (Also –  canola oil? Please never use that, only olive oil!)

Naturally, I called my mother.  “No! You don’t cook them and then put them in the refrigerator!,” she said in horror.  “You make them and then you immediately eat them.”  So we tried some experiments with this process and learned that you can make them in advance, but with some caveats.

Another part of gnocchi adventure is that I found that I couldn’t bring myself to throw away the delicious cooked potato skins.  Betti and I came up with two fantastic (and easy) recipes to use the skins of those roasted potatoes:

  • Potato-skin frittata (omelette)
  • Twice-baked potato-skins with anchovies, parsley, grated Parmigiano, and red pepper – or anything else you want to add!

Here’s my recipe for simple potato gnocchi. This is enough for four (4) servings as a main course, and eight (8) servings as an appetizer.   This recipe works best if you have a potato press or ricer because it allows you to mash up the cooked potato to a very consistent, fine texture (here’s a link to different varieties of ricers: https://robbreport.com/lifestyle/product-recommendations/best-potato-ricer-masher-amazon-2919928/) – I have to confess that I have a very simple one with fine holes that cost me $3, so you don’t need to spend much money to buy one.

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds of Russet potatoes (these are the best for gnocchi)
  • 1 to 2 cups of organic all-purpose flour; you will need to judge the amount as you make the pasta (dough) for the gnocchi
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon of fine sea salt

Preparation

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 450 F. While it’s heating, scrub the potatoes and use a fork to poke holes all over each surface.  Once the oven has reached 450 F, put a large baking pan on the bottom rack of the oven to catch drippings, and then put the potatoes directly on the middle oven rack.
  2. Cook them for 45 – 50 minutes. They are cooked when you can reach in with an oven mitt and gently squeeze a potato and feel it give slightly “give” under the pressure of your mitt.
  3. Remove the potatoes from the oven, and turn off the oven. Allow the potatoes to cool for a few minutes so that they are still warm, but not impossible to handle (15 – 30 minutes should be enough).
  4. Peel the potatoes with your fingers, placing the peel into a medium-sized bowl. If you want to experiment with my potato skin recipes, put the bowl aside for later. Put the remainder of the potatoes in large bowl, or onto the baking pan you used for the drippings.
  5. Set up a clean, large work surface — I use a flour-dusted silicone pad on my kitchen counter. Using your potato ricer, mash all of the warm potatoes onto the work surface and form a well in the center.
  6. Beat the egg with a teaspoon of fine sea salt, then pour it into the potato well. Now, working with about 1/2 cup of flour at a time, begin to mix the flour with the potato and egg.  Gently mix, continuing to add more flour, until you have a dough that feels flexible and soft, but not sticky.  Form a ball of the dough.
  7. Knead it very gently for 3 to 4 more minutes until you have a consistent, smooth texture.
  8. Now divide the dough into even pieces or wedges. Roll each into a ball.

    Gnocchi Dividing And Cutting 1

    A dough made of cooked russet potatoes, egg, and flour is divided and shaped into gnocchi

Gnocchi Cutting And Shaping 1

Cutting the rolled potato dough

9. Starting with the first ball, roll it gently into a long log that is about 3/4 inch in diameter. Cut it into 1-inch pieces, and then using a fork or your fingers, roll down the back of each segment to create the characteristic “knuckle” shape.

Gnocchi Cutting And Shaping 3

10.  Gently place the shaped gnocchi onto a flat, parchment-lined baking dish. Continue creating all of the gnocchi.

At this point, you can either cook the gnocchi in a pot of boiling water (no salt, please, because it will cause the gnocchi to break down) and serve with a delicious sauce –see below- or you can cover the gnocchi with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 day before cooking.

Alternatively, you can freeze your gnocchi, and then cook them in the boiling water after taking them from your freezer.

 

Risotto with Saffron and Artichoke (for 4)

This is a wonderful recipe: it will make an impression! but…saffron is expensive!

Risotto With Wild Artichoke And Saffron 1

Michele finalizing the Artichoke and Saffron Risotto in Calabria

I modified this recipe from something I read in a magazine, basically I replaced the butter with olive oil, changed the type of onion and artichoke, and added the rosemary to the rice.

Artichokes: ideally you want the small wild artichokes.  About 20 of them for 4 people –also those found in jars under olive oil are good.  If you cannot find these type of artichokes, you can use fresh artichokes (1 or 2 per person after you cleaned them very well). You can also use one and half jar of Italian artichokes in olive oil (“Seggiano,” for example, are great).  If you use a jar of regular artichokes, drain the oil from the jar and throw it away, because that oil will not taste good if cooked, and cut each artichoke in 4.

Ingredients

  • Artichokes (see above for quantity)
  • 175 ml (¾ cup) Italian extra virgin olive oil
  • 300 grams of risotto Carnaroli (or Vialone Nano)
  • 2 grams of saffron, not more not less.
  • 1 sweet onion, preferably a Tropea onion, alternatively a Vidalia or a Maui onion, minced
  • 4 sprigs of rosemary, divided. Remove the needles from two of the sprigs to cook with the artichoke; reserve the other whole sprigs for the risotto.
  • ½ glass white wine
  • About 1.25 liters (4-5 cups) of chicken broth, preferably homemade (see recipe)
  • 50 – 70 grams freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) of finely chopped Italian parsley

Preparation

  1. Put the saffron in about 1 cup of warm broth and let it dissolve for several minutes. It will help if you mix it periodically with a fork
  2. Put the rest of the broth on high heat, covered, till it boils. Then put the pot on simmer.
  3. In a separate large skillet, add ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil, the rosemary needles, and turn the heat to high. Add the artichokes and fry until they are golden, approximately 5 minutes.  Remove from heat and set aside after pouring off the olive oil used to cook the artichokes.
  4. Now you are ready to start the risotto. In a risotto pot (Staub or Creuset enamel are the best), add 1/3 of cup of olive oil, the minced onion, and the remaining two sprigs of rosemary and cook on high heat for about 2 minutes, until the onion just begin to become translucent.
  5. Add the risotto, and stir constantly on high heat with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes.
  6. Add the white wine, allow it to evaporate for about 30 seconds, and start adding chicken broth ½ cup at the time, of course stirring it continuously.
  7. Taste for salt and add it if necessary, which means if the broth had little salt, add some.
  8. After about 20 minutes when the risotto is almost ready. Add the broth that contains saffron; now the risotto will turn yellowish/red. Keep stirring.
  9. Once the risotto is done, which means it is still al dente and the broth absorbed almost entirely, turn the heat off, add the Parmigiano and mix well.
  10. Put the cooked artichokes on top of the risotto (do NOT add the olive oil in which you cooked the artichokes), sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve.
  11. Buon Appetito!

Risotto Carciofi e Zafferano

Ottimo, semplice, ma caro perché lo zafferano costa!

Adding Parmigiano to Risotto Wild Artichoke And Saffron

Michele adds the Parmigiano to the risotto.

Carciofi: se trovate i carciofini selvatici, freschi o in scatola meglio, altrimenti i carciofi normali, 1-2 a testa oppure anche quelli in scatola con i c

arciofi sott’olio per esempio I carciofi chef a “Seggiano” sono ottimi (non quelli in acqua per carità).  Se usate i carciofi in barattolo, un barattolo e mezzo per 300 g di riso che basta per 4 persone.  Attenzione l’olio che usano per inscatolarli di solito è scadente, perciò scolatelo e friggeteli con del buon olio d’oliva. Come sempre la qualità dell’olio è fondamentale per la buona riuscita del piatto.

Ingredienti

  • Carciofi (vedi sopra)
  • Olio d’oliva extra vergine Italiano
  • 300 grammi Risotto Carnaroli (o Vialone Nano)
  • Zafferano 2 grame, né più né meno.
  • 1 cipolla di Tropea, o altra cipolla dolce a pezzettini.
  • 4 rametti di rosmarino
  • ½ bicchiere di vino bianco
  • Circa 1 litro e mezzo di brodo di pollo fatto in casa (vedi ricotta)
  • 50-70 grammi di parmigiano grattato fresco
  • Un pugno di prezzemolo tritato

Preparazione

  1. Mettere lo zafferano in 1/3 di litro di brodo di pollo tiepido e con una forchetta girare un po’ e lasciarlo li per circa mezzora che si sciolga. Il più possibile girando spesso.
  2. Mettere il resto del brodo a bollire e come bolle abbassare il fuoco al minimo
  3. Mettere 1/2 bicchiere d’olio in padella, gli aghi di due rametti di rosmarino, fuoco alto, aggiungere i carciofi e fare cuocere finche dorati da entrambi I lati, circa 5 minuti.
  4. In una buona pentola, di ferro, di rame o tipo Staub o Le Creuset per esempio, mettere 1/3 di bicchiere d’ olio, la cipolla a pezzettini, e gli aghi di due rametti di rosmarino, fuoco forte, fate soffriggere 2 minuti, al massimo e aggiungete il riso.
  5. Girate continuamente con un cucchiaio di legno per circa 2 minuti, aggiungete mezzo bicchiere di vino bianco, lasciate evaporare 30 secondi, sempre girando, e cominciate ad aggiungere il brodo un mesto alla volta finché non si incorpora. Assaggiate di sale, se il brodo è insipido dovrete aggiungere un po’ di sale.
  6. Dopo circa 20 min quando il risotto è quasi pronto, aggiungete il brodo con lo zafferano –anche quello che non si è sciolto -e continuate a girare fino a completa cottura.
  7. Spegnete il fuoco, togliete la pentola dai fornelli bollenti, aggiungete il parmigiano rimestate bene, e metteteci sopra i carciofi presi dalla pentola in cui li avete soffritti. Quindi saranno unti, non dovete asciugarli dall’olio ma non dovete aggiungere l’olio in cui avete fritto i carciofi. Aggiungete il prezzemolo e portate la padella a tavola così che tutti vedono quanto è bello questo risotto, poi fate le porzioni e…
  8. Buon Appetito!
Michele Carbone spaghetti

Spaghetti with Bottarga

This is a simple dish to make and delicious, but some people don’t like it because “it tastes too much of fish!”

Bottarga is the dried, salted, pressed roe of various fish, mostly being the gray mullet and yellow fin tuna (also sold under the name of Amberjack and Hamachi, which to be precise [since fish names are often not precise] is the tuna type that is known as “Ricciola” in Italian).  I have used the bottarga of gray mullet and various tuna. In my opinion, the bottarga of Ricciola is the best, but it is very difficult, and almost impossible to find in America. If you can find a source and send it to me, I’ll be very grateful!

The recipe uses the same “original base” that I use to cook the spaghetti cacio e pepe and those with ricotta cheese: I mean, for those simple recipes (such as Pecorino or ricotta, or in this case bottarga), you want to leave the ingredients the chance to shine in their natural flavors.

Ingredients

  • 1 box of spaghetti or fettuccine or linguine
  • ½ cup of extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
  • A handful of chopped fresh Italian parsley, plus 2 TB set aside to be used at the end of the recipe
  • 1 spicy Calabrian or Hawaiian, or Thai pepper (optional—use it if you like a little bit of a “kick” to your pasta)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • About 100 grams of bottarga. Keep the bottarga in the freezer until the last minute.

Preparation

  1. Start by boiling the water for the pasta and when it bois add spaghetti or fettucine or linguine.
  2. Finely chop a bunch of Italian parsley.
  3. Get out a pasta bowl and warm it up (I run hot water into it, then pour out the water before adding the pasta, or use the microoven).
    1. All the ingredients are mixed into the bowl at the end of this recipe and you will need to move quickly.
  4. In a large skillet, gently sauté a couple of cloves of crushed garlic in about ½ a cup of extra-virgin olive oil. Remove the garlic cloves as soon as they take on color.
  5. Turn off the heat, add half of the handful of chopped fresh Italian parsley (about two TB) and 1 or 2 minced peppers to the pan. (Remember to reserve about 2 more TB of parsley just prior to serving).
  6. A soon as the spaghetti tastes ready (al dente), reserve about 1 cup of the hot water from the pasta pan before pouring the pasta into a colander.
  7. Moving quickly, pour the pasta from the colander directly into the skillet (which should still be hot, but the fire is off). Gently mix the pasta with the oil and other ingredients in the pan. Add a little bit of the water that you reserved from the pasta pot (about ½ cup) and continue to mix. It should be a smooth mixture, not too “wet” but not too “dry,” either.
  8. Transfer to the warm pasta bowl.
  9. Add the remaining 2 TB of chopped parsley and gently mix.
  10. ” Grate –or shave- the bottarga directly into the spaghetti (the bottagrga, of course, you keep in the freezer until the last moment. Use a microplane or vegetable peeler to great/shave the bottarga).
    1. How much bottarga? Everyone has different tastes. I like a lot of it, but some people find it too fishy! So grate enough to suit your own taste. I’d suggest 200 grams for 1 box of pasta.
  11. Serve immediately.
  12. Buon appetito!

PS: I suggest you bring the bottarga to the table and allow guests to shave additional bottarga on their plates at will.

Buon appetito!

Suggested Wine Pairing

A fresh Rosé is a wonderful pairing; or use a cold, dry white wine like a Gavi.

Italiano: Spaghetti con la Bottarga
Piatto semplicissimo da fare, buonissimo, ma a alcuni non piace perché “sa troppo di pesce”!

Ci sono due tipi di Bottarga, almeno che io sappia, una di cefalo (muggine) e l’altra di Ricciola o altro tipo di tonno. Quella di Ricciola secondo me è la migliore, ma trovarla, almeno in America, è molto difficile, quasi impossibile visto che non l’ho mai trovata-se la trovate e me la spedite ve ne sarò molto grato!!!

La ricetta, semplicissima usa la stessa “base iniziale” che uso per cucinare gli spaghetti cacio e pepe e quelli con la ricotta, cioè per quelle ricette semplici dove vuoi lasciare al Pecorino (per il cacio e pepe), ricotta, e in questo caso alla bottarga la possibilità di farsi apprezzare nella loro naturalezza. Finita la filosofia procedere come di seguito:

  1. 500 g di spaghetti o fettucine linguine. Bollite l’acqua e calate la pasta.
  2. Soffriggere 2 spicchi d’aglio schiacciati in circa 120 ml olio d’oliva (½ cup). Toglierli APPENA prendono colore, SPEGNERE il fuoco e aggiungere un mezzo pugno di prezzemolo tritato (circa 2 cucchiaie) e un pepperoncino calabrese piccante tritato (o di più se vi piace mangiare piccante).
  3. Riempite di acqua calda una zuppiera, cioè dove metterete la pasta per servirla a tavola, e fatela intiepidire. Quando la pasta è al dente, dovete muovervi rapidamente!
  4. Prendere circa una tazza di acqua dalla pasta che sta bollendo appena prima di scolarla.
  5. Scolare la pasta e mischiarla nella padella con l’olio e aggiungere un po’ dell’acqua che avevate preso, circa ½ tazza, cioè quanto basta perché sia vellutata, né secca, né liquida. Aggiungere un altro po di prezzemolo tritato, (2 cucchiai). Mischiare e trasferire in un piatto di portata, che avete precedentemente intiepidito riempendola di acqua calda e poi asciugandola.
  6. SUBITO, grattare (microplane) or shave (vegetable peeler) RAPIDAMENTE sopra gli spaghetti la bottarga che naturalmente terrete nel freezer fino all’ultimo momento. Quanta bottarga? I gusti so gusti. A me piace tanta bottarga, ma alcuni storceranno il naso dicendo che sa troppo di pesce! Perciò fate a gusto vostro. Io uso circa 100 g. (suggerisco di portare la bottarga a tavola e grattarne altra sopra il vostro piatto a piacimento).

 

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